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Newbie Fashion Tips for Grown-up Men

294 pointsby nathanhover 15 years ago

32 comments

iron_ballover 15 years ago
Almost all of this is solid. One small quibble:<p>"Black tie" means tuxedo. If your host doesn't <i>really</i> mean black tie, that's their mistake, not yours. Don't get a black suit. Everything a black suit can do, a charcoal suit does better.<p>I only bring this up because people seem to think black suits are essential. They aren't. You won't get funny looks, but you won't look as good as you would in charcoal.<p>BONUS TIP: Match your socks to your pants, not your shoes. You want to draw attention to the shoes/leg boundary, not the sock/trouser boundary.<p>BONUS LINK: <a href="http://www.styleforum.net" rel="nofollow">http://www.styleforum.net</a> is where I learned what I wanted to know about tailored men's clothing. Scour the stickies; dip into the daily threadpiles only with caution.
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InclinedPlaneover 15 years ago
This is why I like the tech industry and the west coast so much. Because I can wear jeans and a geeky t-shirt to a 6 figure salary office job and nobody thinks there's a damned thing wrong with that.<p>I have a suit, I wear it extremely rarely and only because I want to, not because I feel forced to do so by society or office culture. I disagree that I am thus not a "grown-up" by some absurd definition. Some people take fashion seriously, others take a more relaxed attitude, that doesn't make either better or more mature than the other.
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kyroover 15 years ago
I'd add a few more things. Make sure your shirt and jacket fit. The most common things I see are men with collars too big for them so there's this huge gap between the front of the neck and the knot of the tie. Make sure your shirt fits snug, along with the suit jacket. The suit jacket should follow the contour of your sides, not hang straight down. It should look tailor-made for your body shape, and those with jackets that drop straight down on the sides look as if they purchased a one-size-fits-all suit. Also, ties should reach mid-buckle, and the knot should be appropriate for the occasion. I see lots of guys at weddings who tie their knot using the simplest method and it looks too casual. Look up various tie knots like the half-windsor, etc. And as he said, your pants should reach the floor, but they should also drape nicely around your shoes. I see lots of guys with bulky dress shoes that cause scrunching of the pant leg at the ankle because there's not enough room for the pants to fit over the shoe and drape; so pick slim fitting shoes.<p>I disagree with him on the shinier the shoe the dressier and that they should be made of leather. I've got slip-on black suede shoes that work really well when dressing up.
grandalfover 15 years ago
The most important thing is that the clothes actually be comfortable. There is nothing less flattering than a person wearing clothes that he'd obviously not be wearing.<p>This has the following implications:<p>- If you are overweight, maybe a button down shirt is just going to bunch up and come untucked and look untidy. If so, you'll look better with a quality t-shirt on underneath a suit than with a button down.<p>- Shoe quality is among the biggest signals of your overall wardrobe quality. Don't skimp on shoes. A high quality pair of shoes will not require much break in and will be extremely comfy.<p>- All suits (and jackets, and most pants) need tailoring for comfort and appearance. You are slightly asymmetrical and having it tailored by a skilled tailor will make it look 10x better.<p>- Suits are made to be as comfy as pajamas. There is a reason investment bankers tolerate them. If yours isn't, it's either a lousy suit or it needs to be tailored.<p>Also,<p>- Do not have your suit dry cleaned more than once every two years unless something catastrophic happens. Just hang it on a quality hanger after you take it off and let it air out.<p>- There are probably some types of clothing that just don't look good on you. Figure out what they are and avoid them.
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defenover 15 years ago
Good advice; I'd like to add rule 0: Lose some weight, and wear clothes that fit.
matrixover 15 years ago
I would rate this article as very basic at best. I became very interested in fashion after I needed to learn about it (long story). One thing you'll see a lot of -- and this article is guilty of this too -- is that clothes should fit well. Duh. The thing is, it's very rarely explained what that actually means. Part of the reason is that a lot of people writing these things simply don't know, beyond a few basics (listen to a tailor or a fashion designer who understands drape, etc). The other part is that the definition of "good fit" changes with time. Currently, the trend for mens fashion is for slim fitting garments. In two years that might change.<p>Dressing well is not about wearing certain types of prescriptive clothing ("thou shalt wear a slim-fitting button-down oxford, slim chinos, and expensive longwings") but rather, is about dressing appropriately for the context, and choosing your clothes with a little care. This means fit, but it also means making sure the colors and patterns work well together (I can expand on this topic a bit more if anyone is interested).
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blasdelover 15 years ago
A fedora is one affectation that a man can't truly pull off unless they're old enough to have fought in the Korean War (Vietnam if Black). Don't be that guy: <a href="http://m.assetbar.com/achewood/uua4Mm6Fp" rel="nofollow">http://m.assetbar.com/achewood/uua4Mm6Fp</a>
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tsallyover 15 years ago
As the author describes, one reason technical people don't dress well is because they never learned how. Another reason is that techies are unconventional and don't place a high priority on mainstream standards. That being said, I've been fashion hacking for half a year now and the results have been great. Here's some concrete advice based on my experience. Note that I'm 20; people who have been professionals for 15 years and have kids probably dress differently. I'm also average height and average weight, so you'll have to make adjustments if you are tall/short/whatever.<p>Tshirts. Fitted solid color shirt with jeans that fit and shoes that impress = coffee shop, homework at the library, class. Easy as pie, and if you get the fit right and are in decent shape you look good.<p>Casual collared shirts. For general wear get bright, solid color fitted ones. Bar, restaurant, class, whatever. It's a very flexible look because you can switch in/out jeans and slacks. Express's 1MX shirts are a solid choice (<a href="http://bit.ly/cXBvxS" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/cXBvxS</a>) and very popular for this type of role.<p>Collared shirts for your suit. Go to a tailor. Get measured. Go to a store that sells suites like Men's Warehouse. Get two white shirts, a powder blue shirt, and a light gray shirt and you are done. Don't complicate things with strips or harder colors if you are just starting. If you want to add personality to your shirt you can do it with a tie You're going for these kinds of looks: <a href="http://bit.ly/bwI7zG" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/bwI7zG</a>, <a href="http://bit.ly/16mDVK" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/16mDVK</a>, and <a href="http://bit.ly/97P8ld" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/97P8ld</a>.<p>Hoodies. Buy two solid color ones, one navy and one grey. No branding, no weird details, no nothing. Solid color only. You can't really improve your look with hoodies, but you can really mess it up by buying one that isn't a solid color. Example (from JCrew): <a href="http://bit.ly/bcG2uB" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/bcG2uB</a>.<p>Graphic Tees. These are hard. You have to be younger to pull off a graphic tee and even then the single to noise ratio in terms of nice/ugly graphic tees is really high. You're probably better off avoiding them<p>Polos. it's very tough to find ones that fit well. I've had decent success with the custom fit from Raulph Lauren (<a href="http://bit.ly/clGtz5" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/clGtz5</a>). But please, don't buy a polo with a huge logo on the front. Examples: This one from Raulph Lauren (<a href="http://bit.ly/arvbbg" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/arvbbg</a>) and this one from Express (<a href="http://bit.ly/9VX3oB" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/9VX3oB</a>) are both BAD choices. A big logo just doesn't look good, and it makes it seem like you are brand dropping.<p>Something for parties. Something that's a little different. Do not buy this until you are ready. Go with your graphic tee or a regular collared shirt until you are confident enough to pick something cool. Example (from Express): <a href="http://bit.ly/9AOupm" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/9AOupm</a>.<p>Jeans. Don't get designer jeans. Don't get them torn. Don't get them baggy. Regular or slim fit only. Get them in colors ranging from dark blue to blue/gray. Do not get light blue. Do not get jeans that are too long. They should never, never touch the ground and they should cover 1/4 to 1/2 of your shoe laces when you are standing.<p>Casual Shoes. Women notice shoes. Seriously. It's really interesting how much they look at your shoes. You can have everything else right, but if your shoes are big blocky white gym shoes, you have failed. I say this as someone who bought big blocky white gym shoes from freshman year in high school to sophomore year in college. The good news is that you can crowd source style selection by looking at Zappos's most popular (<a href="http://bit.ly/bep8vN" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/bep8vN</a>). Once you have the style selection, just make sure you get a decent color. I own a pair of these (<a href="http://www.zappos.com/multiview/126799/14074" rel="nofollow">http://www.zappos.com/multiview/126799/14074</a>).<p>Boots. Get something that looks good but does what it is supposed to do (stand up to the elements). I've had a good experience with Red Wing. The company used to make the shoes for the US Army during WWI and WWII, so they make a quality, durable product. I own a pair of these (<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Red-Wing-Shoes-Gentleman-Traveler/dp/B0018E0RPA" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Red-Wing-Shoes-Gentleman-Traveler/dp/B...</a>) and they are awesome (but really expensive :-/ ). I've used them constantly in the snow and hold up great, plus they look good too.<p>Coat. You should get a wool pea coat. You should stop wearing your Northface that is the side of a small tent. Example (from J Crew): <a href="http://bit.ly/cVNqg2" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/cVNqg2</a>. Peat coats are a proven style that have been around <i>forever</i>. A nice coat is a really expensive investment and you don't want to buy one that will look bad when your style changes as you get older.<p>Sunglasses. Authentic aviators that have frames that fit your face. Done. Like the pea coat, aviators have been around for a long time and there are only a few people who truly don't look good in them.<p>Also, a few general tips:<p>Fit is the key to everything. It doesn't matter how much you spend on clothing or how well you match your colors. You will not look good if your clothes don't fit. Period. Everything you get should be slim fitting. Odds are 10 to 1 that the jeans you are wearing right now are far too baggy. Loose clothing was one of my most difficult habits to break.<p>Do not accept anything less than exactly what you want. Settling for clothing is the worst thing you can do. The legs on the pants you just bought half an inch too long? Return them. The collar of the shirt a little too tight? Return it. There are billions of styles and billions of fits out there. Taking a shortcut to save some time is not the road to success. You have to keep searching until you find a fit and a brand that you really, really like.<p>Focus first on making choices that don't look bad. It's actually really difficult to develop this skill. Once you can consistently make choices that aren't bad, you can start being more risky and shoot for things that look good.<p>--- Yesh, that turned out to be longer than expected. It was kind of a brain dump, so I apologize if there are parts that don't make sense.<p>EDIT: One more thing. The first rule of fight club is you don't talk about fight club. Wearing nice clothes is something you do, but it's not something you brag about. Your clothes and brands don't define you and they don't change who you are. The only things clothes do is get in the way (if they are bad) or complement what you already have (if they are good). It's like being rude or polite in a conversation; it doesn't change the content of the conversation, but things can be really ugly or really pleasant depending on the choices you make.
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amohrover 15 years ago
My favorite line came in the comments: "business casual is a trick foisted on Gen X &#38; Y by the baby boomers to make us look like dolts and keep us from taking over their corner offices! Just say no!"
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yasonover 15 years ago
This is all good if you intend to either impress people you're sure you want to impress or you're sure you actually to want to dress like this even if you were the only person on this planet.<p>Not really objecting to good-looking clothes selected with class but do it for the right reasons.
davidmurphyover 15 years ago
Anyone want to dare venture an opinion why women place such stock in judging men by their shoes?<p>As a guy, I enjoy dressing nicely when I can except it irks me people care so much about (men's) shoes. I don't get why they matter so much - they're on our feet near the floor out of sight mostly and serve an impt <i>functional</i> purpose to cushion and protect the foot.<p>And it angers me our society makes it fashionable for women to hurt themselves with really painfully uncomfortable shoes.
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xiaomaover 15 years ago
&#62;<i>White socks are for sports. Only. </i><p>White socks are a lot more versatile than that, unless the scope of "sports" is so broad as to include hikes, walking in the park or even having a barbecue. Wearing dress socks with sneakers is just odd.
mhbover 15 years ago
The Sartorialist is great:<p><a href="http://www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com/</a>
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jokullover 15 years ago
Don't buy anything that says anything on it. Perhaps a small Lacoste badge logo or something but no messages. Don't wear pink and yellow. When in doubt, copy everything from Tom Ford's A Single Man movie. And it's more important to look fit then wear the right fit, although both are important to look good.
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isamuelover 15 years ago
Anyone who enjoys this will enjoy "Put This On," a collaboration between "the Sound of Young America guy" and "the You Look Nice Today guy." It's a video series (season 1 is about to launch, &#38; there's already a pilot available) and tumblr.<p><a href="http://putthison.com/" rel="nofollow">http://putthison.com/</a>
apsec112over 15 years ago
I don't know how accurate these are for people who dress this way, but I would guess that very few people on this site do dress this way. The style he's describing is as formal as that of a New York City investment banker when he's at his office (<a href="http://www.mergersandinquisitions.com/investment-banking-wardrobe-men/" rel="nofollow">http://www.mergersandinquisitions.com/investment-banking-war...</a>).
rokhayakebeover 15 years ago
The styliest guy in the room is also the simplest. If you do not know what to buy, keep it simple: get 1 pair or Rock and Republick (they always fit), and 1 7 for all mankind, get 2 white shirts and 1 black one from J crew. Pack up on Hanes t-shirts. Add a simple stainless silver watch, you are done. Do not worry about the shoes, just keep them clean, and no square toes.
sownover 15 years ago
3 Suits?!<p>That's like asking me to own three cars.
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nsrivastover 15 years ago
I'd like a site like crowdspring, except I upload pictures of my clothes and people tell me what tie/shirt/pants/suit go with each other.
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mkramlichover 15 years ago
Today is the day I realized Hacker News has jumped the shark. Plus, I realized just how many more readers it has that are either women or are homosexual men. :)<p>Seriously, this whole thread reads like Cosmo magazine. (Oh, do dish! You go girl, tell it! I only wear Gabana. Yellow goes bad with red. Hoodies are to die for. Anyone that matches a Denillo with a Gucci something-or-rather is a fashion disaster! I'm going to tell all you people how to dress because I have mastered it -- did I mention I'm only 20? OMGBBQ!!!)
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davidmurphyover 15 years ago
Anyone want to dare venture an opinion why women place such stock in judging men by their shoes?<p>As a guy, I enjoy dressing nicely when I can except it irks me people care so much about (men's) shoes. I don't get why they matter so much - they're on our feet near the floor out of sight mostly and serve an impt <i>functional</i> purpose to cushion and protect the foot.<p>And it angers me our society makes it fashionable for women to hurt themselves with really painfully uncomfortable shoes.
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jackfoxyover 15 years ago
That does it. This weekend I am definitely buying the kangaroo skin Vibram Five Fingers!
Radixover 15 years ago
There were some comments on the blog asking about tucking in your shirt without a belt. I believe it's okay if you do not have belt loops. My brother has an old suit from the 80s which has no belt loops and as long as the shirt is tapered it looks good.<p>Of course you have to walk like you intended to wear a suit from the 80s.
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hristovover 15 years ago
What about a cane? Can I have a cane as my affectation? I was just outside and it is gorgeous cane weather.
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njs12345over 15 years ago
Watch Mad Men and copy Don Draper?
parboover 15 years ago
&#62; 4. You can unbutton the top button always (provided you’re not wearing a tie), the second button usually, the third button only on disco night at the Rollerama.<p>The version I've heard is that you need to see the Mediterranean to unbutton the third button.
scotty79over 15 years ago
&#62; Dress Suits<p>As soon as they make suits incorporating Polartec and Goretex I'll think about wearing suits. Until then I prefer my comfort over pretty much anything. I make exception only for funerals and weddings.
warfangleover 15 years ago
For those of you in NYC - take a peak at mysuitny.com. Design your suit, pick the fabric, then go into the store to get measured. Suit arrives later in the mail.<p>It's where I'm going for my next suit, at least..
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abalashovover 15 years ago
Yeah, I may get around to considering some of these things someday if I make any money. Broke-ass entrepreneurs rolling their own out of pure cash need not apply. Most clothes I have are left over from high school or first year of college and suit just fine.
kscaldefover 15 years ago
Personally, I would skip the loafers. IMO, grown men tie their shoes. Instead, have a pair of wing-tips and a pair of unadorned or cap-toe oxfords.
_hgt1over 15 years ago
Soon on Hacker News:<p>How to eat with a knife and fork!<p>How to do "number twos"!<p>How to brush your teeth!<p>Sheesh
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seldoover 15 years ago
This is "Fashion tips, as long as by fashion you mean what 19th-century British aristocracy wore".<p>If you asked a woman to wear an uncomfortable and restrictive item of clothing designed in the 1800s you would be a crazy sexist. But apparently men are supposed to do just that.
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