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How Premium Mediocre Conquered Fashion

88 pointsby technobabbleover 6 years ago

17 comments

Nasrudithover 6 years ago
There is so much wrong with this article it isn&#x27;t funny. The lack of self awareness is enough that Eugene could flunk a Turing test and would be complained about as lousy writing if he was placed in a movie.<p>The whole damn point of the Fashion Industry is to fabricate an experience of luxury and exclusivity in the first place! Otherwise they would just be commodity textiles with a far smaller margin - the ones any early developing country can produce with a little bit of investment.<p>Then there is the frankly incoherent bashing of millennials for not spending money on the &quot;real high end&quot; while complaining about them splurging and calling them entitled. Look do you want them to buy your overpriced crap or to join the list of victim entitled industries &quot;killed by millennials&quot;?<p>From a guy who feels entitled to profits at a large mark up, and setting the standards of taste for everbody. Who feels the place of the customer is to serve the merchant. Talk about projecting like IMAX....<p>As for why the fashion signaling niche has been taken up by logoed commodities: tt is the economy stupid. It is no wonder people are going for an accessible &quot;high end&quot; when essential expenses and debts related to them are high. People splurge a bit for mental health - done within their means it can be healthy even.<p>Plus even those who are better off can get dirty looks for conspicious consumption outside a sufficently matched setting - and not even in an envious sour grapes way like &quot;I would totally get a Tesla&#x2F;Buggaratti if I could afford it.&quot; but &quot;What kind of asshole spends $50k on a handbag when even $500 is overkill? That is more than my car!&quot;.
bartreadover 6 years ago
The end of the article hints at it, but I think this stuff really represents the &quot;high end&quot; of the fast fashion cycle. You got the logo, and you spent enough money to feel like you&#x27;ve bought something premium, but actually it&#x27;s low quality, disposable tat.<p>I&#x27;m vaguely aware of a lot of this simply due to working with a tracking product for fashion brands, but where I&#x27;m really aware of it is with watches, which are a bit of a hobby for me.<p>Notably, brands such as MVMT, Vincero, Daniel Wellington, and Michael Kors, take the cheapest of the cheap quartz movements, case them up - particularly with MVMT and Vincero - in cheap, generic cases, with straps made of the lowest quality materials, slap their logo on, do a ton of <i>fantastic</i> social media marketing, and then chuck on a ridiculous markup to charge sometimes hundreds of dollars or pounds for these effectively disposable time-pieces.<p>MVMT in particular have come in for a lot of flak recently, because people have started calling them out on the fact that you can buy the exact same watch, minus the MVMT logo, on Alibaba for $5 as opposed to $100.<p>Still, overall these brands are absolutely killing it, and aren&#x27;t having a great effect on more established brands that produce higher quality timepieces. These are brands that offer objectively better products, but aren&#x27;t nearly as savvy with their marketing: Timex, Seiko, Orient, Citizen, Tissot, Inox, Hamilton, Zeppelin, Junkers, Junghans, and the list goes on. None of these specialise in luxury watches, but in the same price range as the fashion brands they do offer <i>good</i> watches, many extremely stylish, that will last for decades.<p>Premium mediocre might also be the reason that TAG Heuer get such short shrift amongst watch aficionados. They&#x27;re nominally a luxury brand, and they certainly do make some decent timepieces. For example, the Monaco is a classic and - for a horology geek - their high end chronographs are seriously impressive (and way the hell above my price range).<p>Nevertheless, you really get ripped off on TAG&#x27;s entry level quartz pieces. These are still kind of pricey, but the quality isn&#x27;t there. For example, they will cheerfully charge you well north of £1000 for a quartz Aquaracer with a misaligned second hand. Not OK, but a lot of people buy into it because it makes a TAG Heuer attainable.
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Geeketteover 6 years ago
&quot;<i>Brands are giving the masses the illusion that they are consuming luxury, when in reality they are doing nothing of the sort, argues Eugene Rabkin.</i>&quot;<p>This approach to serving the midmarket has been around for a long time, especially in the consumer goods sector. Very lucrative indeed because the margins are so much higher when you charge premium for a mediocre product that cost correspondingly little to make. A good example is the Victoria&#x27;s Secret underwear brand. It produces mediocre products but pumps huge money into marketing itself as a luxury brand. Worked well in N. America where until recently, there was little variety of underwear brands available.<p>I&#x27;ve also noticed over time that European fashion products tend to have a higher quality threshold even at the lower ends. I attribute part of it to the region having longer history with haute couture (high-end luxury), which in turn established higher quality expectations for the aspirational and lower end brands, as well as more choices of brands including within the underwear sector.
narratorover 6 years ago
The logo&#x2F;brand obsession that they talk about in this article really annoys me. I went into REI to try and buy a jacket recently and could not get anything without an unremovable brand name on the front of it. Underwear without a brand name readable from across the room on the waistband is also difficult to find in stores.
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burger_moonover 6 years ago
What&#x27;s interesting to me is how big and accessible the fake market has gotten for luxury brand clothes and shoes. I remember when you&#x27;d buy fake Jordans and Coach purses out of trunks. Now you just go on Taobao and you can buy fakes that are completely indiscernible from the real items and costs $20. There&#x27;s even user reviews for fakes that compare them to the real items like Amazon reviews so you having buying confidence from certain sellers that quality is high.<p>For a lot of people it&#x27;s more about repping the right brands than it is about having authentic items. This of course has consequences for the real brands who potentially lose sales to fakes, but from what I can tell it&#x27;s similar to people who pirate movies, they only watch it because it&#x27;s free, but wouldn&#x27;t buy the dvd or see it in the theaters otherwise.
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mlacksover 6 years ago
I&#x27;m typing this out from a laptop I keep in a Coach laptop case. I only have it because it was a gift from a friend. His mother works at Coach and frequently gifts her son &quot;premium mediocre&quot; items such as card holders and nylon bags such as my laptop bag. His closet has Coach-branded wallets literally spilling out of it.<p>I&#x27;m very grateful for the laptop bad. It was an unsolicited present when I mentioned I was in the market for one, however when I went to his home to receive it, I couldn&#x27;t help but feel disappointed in the feel of it.<p>On one hand, its very subtle. I prefer Coach products over something like LVMH or GUCCI because the labeling isn&#x27;t in your face. And the Coach leather duffel I paid 800 for in 2013 is still with me in excellent condition after 6 years and 10 countries of daily use.<p>On the other hand, this is not worth 115USD. Its simply a laptop sized sleeve with a zipper, some padding, and and the official seal with a serial number. No straps, no additional pockets. I guess in some instances you really do pay for the privilege of the name.
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Zanniover 6 years ago
While I agree with the basic premise of the article (disparaging low-quality goods attached to premium brands), I take exception to two of the examples: Starbucks and premium economy airline seats.<p>I regularly upgrade to premium economy when I fly for the very real benefits of 1) earlier boarding, ensuring convenient overhead access to my carry-on luggage and 2) extra legroom; I find it&#x27;s impossible to open and use a laptop with today&#x27;s shallow seat pitch configurations unless you upgrade.<p>As for Starbucks, I&#x27;m paying a premium (but not much, as a tea drinker) for the amenities: air-conditioning, clean bathrooms, quality furniture. Too many local coffee shops lack these basics.
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abnryover 6 years ago
Most of clothing sales are based on branding, not quality, and buying a certain brand means buying into a certain image you want of yourself.<p>People will avoid WalMart like the plague because they don&#x27;t want to be &quot;someone who gets their clothes at WalMart,&quot; not because their jeans are too crummy for them to wear.
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motohagiographyover 6 years ago
As a former (or perhaps just occasional) style writer who has put a great deal of thought into what peoples decisions about what they wear actually mean, 20 years ago the author&#x27;s &quot;premium mediocre,&quot; used to be called &quot;aspirational products.&quot;<p>These were the keychains, perfumes, and ballcaps with astronomical margins that made the real money on the other side of the business, which was their loss leading spectacle (haute couture, etc.) You can&#x27;t afford a DeHavilland Beaver airplane, but you can buy this saddle stitched wallet as a symbol to remind you of the image of one.<p>The aspirational products matter because they give us information about peoples true desires. It&#x27;s a leading indicator for culture and politics. Even the Cambridge Analytica scandal was started by someone who was able to link peoples political leanings to the brands they chose. (I&#x27;d link the article but it&#x27;s behind the FT paywall.)<p>When someone gets up in the morning, the things they choose to wear are an expression of what team they think they are on, what tribe they think they are a part of, who they think their main stakeholders are, and what kind of incentives motivate them. In business, that&#x27;s about all you need to know about someone.<p>Given this, I get the impression fashion, business and culture are not the main field of the author of this op-ed.
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wisdomoftheagesover 6 years ago
This reminded me of a classic essay on how a lot of &quot;luxury&quot; branding is meant to appeal, not to the true elite (the kind of people who are born with seven or more figures in a trust fund and &#x2F; or live off capital gains), but to the aspirations of professional-class strivers (lawyers, doctors, advertising directors, software engineers, etc.):<p><a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;thelastpsychiatrist.com&#x2F;2011&#x2F;11&#x2F;luxury_branding_the_future_lea.html" rel="nofollow">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;thelastpsychiatrist.com&#x2F;2011&#x2F;11&#x2F;luxury_branding_the_...</a>
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kochikameover 6 years ago
I have to take issue with the inclusion of &quot;craft beer&quot; in the list of examples of &quot;premium mediocre&quot; at the top of the article.<p>There is certainly &quot;fake&quot; craft beer, made by the macro beverage companies that is designed to basically trick people into shelling out more because they believe they are buying into some premium category. It&#x27;s classic aspirational stuff all built around marketing.<p>But then... well, there&#x27;s all the REAL craft beer, which is (for want of a better word) crafted, made with care, creativity and in an environment of independence and experimentation. This stuff is genuinely good, or can be (sometimes experiments fail and this is fine), and like indie movements in music, art and literature deserves to be celebrated as an authentic expression of human endeavor.<p>So don&#x27;t buy Goose, buy Revolution. Don&#x27;t buy Elysian, buy New Glory. Go see what your local brewery is making. Better still, make some yourself and see how you like it.<p>Don&#x27;t order &quot;$25 signature burgers&quot; from those places with all the trappings of the hipster movement but are actually owned by investment banks, order them from your local places that&#x27;re actually doing it for themselves. It&#x27;s not that hard to tell the difference usually.<p>I guess I agree with the article in the final analysis because I hate to see big companies ripping the genuine creativity out of grassroots&#x2F;artisanal scenes and turning it into a shadow of itself for profit.
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tsunamifuryover 6 years ago
On the other hand, genuinely premium brands like Brunello Cucinelli stay quiet and do provide high quality, but at a price no one can afford. For those in the know, the namesake CEO is in tight with the Silicon Valley power players. Mark Zuckerberg trademark hoodies are made by Brunello, as are most of the Apple, Salesforce, and various other major tech companies wardrobes. Unlike what this writer believes, even billionaires signal, but it’s far more subtle.
DenisMover 6 years ago
Ok, so if you can&#x27;t rely on the price to signify quality, what can you rely on? Where does one go to purchase a pair of shoes that will endure?<p>The best I came up with so far is using Wirecutter reviews. This way I discovered, for instance, where to buy treat-quality bedding and towels, but it doesn&#x27;t cover anywhere near the spectrum of things that I need. Sometimes I find something good and they stop making it a year later.
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coleiferover 6 years ago
Some people are literally ignorant of luxury brands. My bougie sisters-in-law are locked in a competition to outdo one another with Kate spade bags, Michael Kors watches, etc., and have no idea that these aren&#x27;t the height of luxury. Here in Topeka, they are (where 100k gets you a nice 3br home).<p>Me? I&#x27;ll stick to my brand name athleisure thank you very much.
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natvodover 6 years ago
People buy based on recognizable brand names because it signals you&#x27;re able to afford something in that price range and know &quot;what&#x27;s cool&quot;.<p>What&#x27;s interesting is that some luxury brands&#x27;s true high end lines are not really profitable (example: haute couture) and are actually supported by the brand&#x27;s entry level &quot;premium mediocre&quot; products like canvas bags, perfumes, etc. In a way, the true luxury products acts as a marketing expense to bolster brand cachet, so their entry level products are coveted by the masses as status symbols.
jiveturkeyover 6 years ago
it’s called mid market
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draw_downover 6 years ago
The banner at the top of the page proclaims:<p><pre><code> Become a BoF Professional Get members-only exclusive content and unlimited access to articles. </code></pre> Probably just a coincidence.