Here is my ASCII art rendition of my sub $50 standing desk, from the side and from the front:<p><pre><code> +-- ---------- <== monitor platform
| | |
--| +----+ <== keyboard platform
| | |
| +----+ <== cross-brace
--+-- | |
</code></pre>
It consists of 2x4s for the frame and two pine boards for the platforms. The base legs are 30" long. The uprights on the sides are now 48.5" tall. The space between the uprights is 36", spanned near the bottom by a 2x4 (originally, I used an Ikea X-brace, but it's a PITA getting it set up without bonking your head without a solid cross-piece to start with).<p>The upper monitor/laptop deck is a 48" long, 16" deep, 3/4" thick pine board. It's wide so that I can fit multiple monitors, though I'm finding that a single monitor is better for my neck (less twisting). The keyboard platform is a 36" long, 16" deep, 3/4" thick pine board. These are laminated boards, consisting of several strips glued together. They're sold shrink-wrapped at home stores and you can get them paint grade or stain grade.<p>The keyboard platform is about 44.5" off the ground, and they monitor platform is about 53.25". I currently have about 9" height difference between the keyboard and monitor platforms, which works well for the monitor and monitor stand I'm using (a swinging stand from Monoprice).<p>The keyboard and monitor platforms are supported by L-brackets made out of glued-and-screwed 2x4s. I made it a point to support the pine boards for about 3/4" of their depth, so that they don't break under stress.<p>Here is a crude drawing of the L-brackets which support the monitor and keyboard platforms:<p><pre><code> +------+
| * | <== asterisks are drilled holes
|--+---+
| *| / <== 45-degree cut block for extra bracing
+--+/
</code></pre>
Currently, the platforms have holes drilled, and put two bolts through each end to the L-brackets (the bolts screw into threaded inserts which I put into the L-brackets - Google "threaded wood insert"). Then, the L-brackets are through-bolted to the uprights.<p>I built this particular desk so that I can disassemble it. As such, it uses a series of holes drilled 1" apart in the uprights and the L-brackets. This allows me to move the platforms up and down. Of course, it turns out that this is a bit silly, since the holes don't really line up all that well (i.e. get out the hammer and whack away to get that bolt in), and once I found the position I like, it's not moving. If I were doing this over again, I would use several QuickGrip clamps (and maybe a drilled hole + a screw for safety) to hold everything together while I figure out the geometry, then I would run just drill the necessary bolt holes at that point.<p>As it stands right now, the desk is a bit wobbly (the monitor sways very slightly as I'm typing this). Using the Ikea metal cross-brace will probably help with that. A simpler solution (which would be important in earthquake-prone areas, btw) would be a small L-bracket at the back of the monitor stand, screwed into the wall behind the desk.