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Kelly Slater’s Shock Wave

126 点作者 acdanger超过 6 年前

11 条评论

dwd超过 6 年前
Good article but I was disappointed about his throwaway comment at the end on the Yeppoon Surf Lakes which is a better example of democratising waves.<p>Five different waves for various levels of surfer skill and generated seconds apart by the single plunger. A bigger wave just needs a bigger plunger.<p><a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.surf-lakes.com.au&#x2F;prototype&#x2F;" rel="nofollow">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.surf-lakes.com.au&#x2F;prototype&#x2F;</a><p>Disclaimer: I live on the Sunny Coast so possibly biased in wanting to see Occy and his partners make it work.
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subroutine超过 6 年前
Best exchange from the interview...<p>&quot;I said can you picture some kid who just learns in a wave pool but has this perfect wave at his disposal, and becomes unimaginably skilled, and becomes a world champion because they trained on this incredible wave. And she says yeah, and then they paddle out at the pipeline and drown. And we both laughed&quot;
rhodysurf超过 6 年前
William Finnegan is the best surf writer in the world probably and this is the best article on the surf ranch so far. As an ocean engineer it’s a pretty awesome spectacle and a wonder of a system.<p>But it totally glosses over the environmental impact and the hypocrisy of the entire thing. Surfers like Kelly Slater and Steph Gilmore are huge environmental advocates, yet the pool uses and absolutely obscene amount of electricity and water every day (the water usage is worse, using up to 300,000 gallons a day!!!) and everyone is being flown there on private jets.<p>It’s also just localism all over again, except now it’s just straight up money that keep you out of the club instead of a more abstract idea of being a local.
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jonknee超过 6 年前
In related news, HBO is releasing a surfing documentary tonight that features Slater. It features people who worked on well received ESPN 30 for 30 docs, so I expect it to be high quality.<p><a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.hbo.com&#x2F;documentaries&#x2F;momentum-generation" rel="nofollow">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.hbo.com&#x2F;documentaries&#x2F;momentum-generation</a>
laurentl超过 6 年前
Great article, even though I don&#x27;t really care about surfing.<p>One thing that struck me is how he describes the physical attraction of the wave, the need for it. After spending every surf session in your entire life waiting for a good wave, yearning for it, scrutinizing each swell to see if this is finally the right one, to have this perfect wave available whenever you want... It must be like handing the keys of the prescription drugs cabinet to an opioid addict.<p>I wonder if a good parallel for the wave machine is the advent of climbing walls in the 80s. I would say, 40 years on, that indoor climbing walls have indubitably been a Good Thing for climbing in general. Yet I&#x27;m pretty sure they sparked the same debates about the nature of the sport, its democratization and professionalization, etc. when they made their first appearance.
laxatives超过 6 年前
Just for some context, the author wrote an autobiography called Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life that won a pulitzer prize and is a bible for a lot of surfers. Probably just about every (American) surfer with a college degree has read that book.
monk_e_boy超过 6 年前
I surfed in the UK all my life and loved every minute of it. Then, on a whim, my brother and I went travelling around the world surfing.<p>It after a while it struck us, &quot;Oh, that&#x27;s how you get good at surfing. Good, consistent waves.&quot; We came back a hundred times better at surfing, but it ruined UK waves for us. Waiting six months for a good day wasn&#x27;t much fun.<p>We turned to kitesurfing.<p>I would love to have one of these wave parks near us, it would be so much fun to play around in.
Gatsky超过 6 年前
This is an almost perfect article, and I don’t really care about surfing at all. Brilliant writing.
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Animats超过 6 年前
Here&#x27;s the wave machine.[1] It&#x27;s not complicated, just big and expensive.<p>Surfstream[2] is more practical.[2] It&#x27;s a surfing treadmill - the wave stays in one place. Uses a modest sized pool.<p>[1] <a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.youtube.com&#x2F;watch?v=UaNMQW74v8E" rel="nofollow">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.youtube.com&#x2F;watch?v=UaNMQW74v8E</a><p>[2] <a href="http:&#x2F;&#x2F;americanwavemachines.com&#x2F;technology&#x2F;surfstream" rel="nofollow">http:&#x2F;&#x2F;americanwavemachines.com&#x2F;technology&#x2F;surfstream</a>
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dajonker超过 6 年前
Makes you think why you would go to work every day and be so serious all the time. This looks like serious fun.
kevinwang超过 6 年前
The writing is so good