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Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

600 点作者 stacktrust大约 2 年前

58 条评论

penguin_booze大约 2 年前
I used be an ameteur electronics enthusiast. When I was young, I used to assemble trivial circuits (dancing lights etc.): I could go to an electronics shop. They used to sell hobby kits for simple, accessible, devices. The kit had circuit layout, component list, labels, what goes where and all. I then assembled them per the layout (&quot;this leg of the transistor goes to the left leg of the capacitor&quot;). It worked - I used to be quite pleased with myself, and used to show that off to other people. No mentors; no one to consult on my doubts. I was &quot;self-made&quot;.<p>But the thing is that I never had a clear idea of how it worked; or, if some parts were broken, how to identify <i>what</i> was broken (other than, of course, sniffing for burned smell or charred look on the PCB). That condition is what I now realize as being unable to reason about the circuit at hand. As in, how would I arrive at that circuit by myself - being able to point at components and say, &quot;this guy does this, and the other guy does this, and voila, we&#x27;ve dancing light&quot;.<p>I can name individual components and stuff, and can wave my hands and say what it does individually. The fact that I can&#x27;t compose a circuit from scratch still gets me. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how one can build an intuitive understanding and a mental model?<p>EDIT: it just occurred to me &quot;dancing lights&quot; are called Astable Multivibrator! We were taught this at school, <i>after</i> I built them. Oh, I still can remember how smug I felt!
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zackmorris大约 2 年前
This is just a fantastic page, why aren&#x27;t more on the internet like this, with specific parts lists and sources? Very similar to the stations we had when I was doing computer repair a decade ago (no, I will not fix your computer.™) and out of everything on there, be sure to get a good ESD mat, or else you&#x27;ll never stop chasing random glitches.<p>I just want to add that the best way to get over starting friction is to have everything ready to go like this. IMHO it&#x27;s much easier to take care of the low-hanging fruit of arranging and cleaning, than it is to have to do that and THEN work. I struggle with organization though, so I treat that as an active exercise and devote 15 minutes at a time to the chore, rewarding myself with a cup of coffee or whatever afterwards.
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tverbeure大约 2 年前
Something isn’t right. You can see the bench surface.
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CarVac大约 2 年前
I urge people to ditch leaded solder in favor of lead-free.<p>Most difficulties people have in using lead-free comes from one of three things:<p>1. a poor soldering iron<p>2. bad quality solder (the cheap stuff with bad flux is bad, duh)<p>3. poor technique (among other things, wipe your tip just before using, not before putting it away)<p>I like the Chipquik SAC305 with no-clean flux and other people I&#x27;ve recommended it to find it no harder to work with than Sn63Pb37.
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sokoloff大约 2 年前
I find &quot;SMD Sample Books&quot; to be a more effective storage&#x2F;retrieval system for SMD passives than the lidded parts enclosures. I&#x27;ve got some of the latter, but stopped using them for passives (and repurposed them for small 3-6 pin commonly used parts).<p>But I have to admit that that setup is far cleaner and more organized overall than my disaster of a workbench...
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KaiserPro大约 2 年前
This is a very nice guide. Lots of good choices.<p>One thing I would add is that having a solid bench with a replaceable surface to do dirty&#x2F;cutting things on is really useful.<p>I have a really solid desk I made out of scaffolding planks and recycled roof timbers. The surface is then made using either Ikea bamboo chopping boards (they were on offer) or some other replaceable work top.<p>Another thing that might be useful for Beginners +1 is a second hand bench top multimeter. This is only useful if you are not going to be mobile. They have the advantage that they are always there, and aren&#x27;t moved much. If you have a more fancy o-scope, this isn&#x27;t probably needed as you can do most things on that (once you&#x27;ve learnt how to.)<p>This is personal preference, so do take this as a personal opinion.
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tpmx大约 2 年前
24 inches (60 cm) is not deep enough, IMO. It&#x27;s incredibly irritating that IKEA stopped selling reasonably priced 75+ cm deep bench tops (except for in a few markets, like Germany, maybe IKEA thinks they still use CRTs there?).<p>Also: I see that your photos include a proper solder fume extractor, but the BOM doesn&#x27;t. I think it makes sense to include one.<p>I did some research a few months ago for a suitable model available in the EU. My research ended up with this one: Weller ZERO SMOG EL KIT 1. About 700 EUR + VAT. (Didn&#x27;t pull the trigger yet - curious about thoughts on this one.)
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junon大约 2 年前
I also just started going through the EE lab setup from scratch after 20 years of programming. What a great little guide, and matches my experience thus far (though the author is <i>way</i> more organized).<p>I&#x27;m pretty proud of the little parts system I&#x27;ve made, albeit much more primitive. I use pretty exclusively Mouser at this point so I invested in a cheap barcode scanner and just keep the bags in a box since I have limited space. I have a parts database that wraps SQLite and has operations such as &quot;inventory&quot; (taking inventory of my existing parts, updating counts), &quot;shipment&quot; which is a quick way to increase counts of a new shipment of parts (I just have to scan the mouser ID and then the part quantity), and &quot;populate&quot; which decrements each part by one per scan as I&#x27;m populating a board.<p>It&#x27;s one of those quick-hack-and-slash setups that is really fun to build and is just another part of the yak shaving process. Overall getting into PCB design has been a <i>very, very</i> fun hobby, and since I have real projects I need custom PCBs for, it&#x27;s been a great supplemental skill to have.<p>Cool article!
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massaman_yams大约 2 年前
Mean Well has some constant current dimmable 24v power supplies with zero flicker. You&#x27;d need 2 if you want each strip to be independently controllable. They also can take a PWM signal if you&#x27;re so inclined, but I bought them because I prefer flicker-free dimming. e.g. <a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.mouser.com&#x2F;ProductDetail&#x2F;709-HLG40H-24B" rel="nofollow">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.mouser.com&#x2F;ProductDetail&#x2F;709-HLG40H-24B</a>
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stacktrust大约 2 年前
Building a workshop in an SF rental studio, <a href="http:&#x2F;&#x2F;dammitcoetzee.com&#x2F;2019&#x2F;01&#x2F;a-workshop-in-an-sf-studio&#x2F;" rel="nofollow">http:&#x2F;&#x2F;dammitcoetzee.com&#x2F;2019&#x2F;01&#x2F;a-workshop-in-an-sf-studio&#x2F;</a><p><pre><code> “I should just build a floor on my floor!” I joked to my friend. “Yea, I could just put some plywood on top of the carpet. Then it would be safe from metal shavings and other workshop mess.” We laughed at the ridiculous idea. However, my subconscious wasn’t laughing. “build a floor on my floor…. build a floor on my floor” it echoed in the depths. It waited.</code></pre>
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lanewinfield大约 2 年前
As a person who&#x27;s been tinkering with hardware the past couple of years, I had been trying to search for exactly this kind of guide for MONTHS.<p>This is so well documented and made. I love it!
tomatocracy大约 2 年前
This is a very comprehensive list (and the organisation is pretty inspiring) but missing a few things I have personally found very valuable in what I do (which involves a mixture of smallish new projects and retrocomputing repairs&#x2F;upgrades&#x2F;etc) - main one I&#x27;d mention is low melting point solder to use for desoldering larger components (both plated through hole and SMD) - it took me ages before I tried it and it&#x27;s made a huge difference at least for me. Chip Quick is the well known brand but you can get cheap unbranded &quot;bars&quot; of it as well. I&#x27;ve also found desolder stations much easier to get on with than solder suckers - Hakko 808 is what I see recommended a lot though it&#x27;s not what I have. Ultimately if it&#x27;s temperature controlled I think there&#x27;s not much to choose between them.<p>Finally there are some great very cheap logic analyzers out there - modern oscilloscopes will do this too but you have to get pretty high up the price list before you can make do with just one device for both uses.
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Scene_Cast2大约 2 年前
I see a fume extractor under the desk. As someone who was in the market for one recently, I&#x27;d love some discussion (like loudness, price, performance, etc).
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johnwalkr大约 2 年前
Hakko FX-888D is great and appropriate with the other stuff mentioned (although I prefer the older version with an analogue knob for temperature control), but it&#x27;s $115 and for most new hobbyists a $25 pinecil or a $25 knockoff Hakko T12 is perfectly adequate and miles ahead of anything you&#x27;d find in a home depot for the same price.
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zwieback大约 2 年前
Nice setup! In addition to a decent scope I like having a USB logic analyzer. There are lots of cheap ones but Saleae (no affiliation) makes really nice ones.
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danaos大约 2 年前
&gt; Rigol DS1054Z Digital Oscilloscope<p>Interesting as I&#x27;m considering buying a scope. Does this still give the most bang for your buck in 2023? Many online commenters mention the Siglent SDS1104X-E as a more modern alternative.
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bsder大约 2 年前
The only argument I have would be the soldering irons. You really want a Metcal or Thermaltronics station. They&#x27;re just so much better that it&#x27;s ridiculous.<p>Yes, they are expensive. However, you will have them <i>forever</i>. And you will never have to worry about too much heat, too little heat, or calibration ever again.<p>Your soldering will be so dramatically better that you will wonder how you ever did without them.
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seabass-labrax大约 2 年前
I have one of the more basic UNI-T multimeters and can highly recommend it. It&#x27;s always there when I need it (the single 9V battery keeps it going for years) and has great precision.<p>One thing that I <i>don&#x27;t</i> have - and really want to have - is a variable power supply with constant voltage&#x2F;current. They can be used when you have an unusual battery you need to charge safely, for instance. Unfortunately, they always seem inordinately expensive considering that all they are inside is a few coils and some ICs. I&#x27;ve looked into building one myself, and found the very informative EEVBlog series on it[1]. However, there&#x27;s one thing I don&#x27;t understand: how do you compensate for the voltage drop over your current measuring resistor? Is it a simple linear equation and you just boost the voltage accordingly? I&#x27;d love an explanation!<p>[1]: <a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.youtube.com&#x2F;watch?v=CIGjActDeoM">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.youtube.com&#x2F;watch?v=CIGjActDeoM</a>
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contingencies大约 2 年前
I would caution against taking the power supply recommendation for two reasons.<p>(1) Don&#x27;t buy equipment without LXI as IMHO once you get going you really need coherent and scriptable ethernet control of everything. Yes, you can work manually or use some oddball vendor tool over USB. Yes, it&#x27;s slow, error prone, and frustrating. The difference between getting things done and getting burned out is largely down to choice of tools. Spend the money.<p>(2) Multi-channel is important. Pretty much anything needs more than one voltage. It really sux having multiple PSUs because it doubles bench space, cable overheads, is a pain to synchronize. I would recommend a three channel supply with LXI at a minimum.
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femto大约 2 年前
I generally find that storage drawers and trays don&#x27;t work for me. Invariably you get it all nicely organised, then at a future point you acquire a new component that breaks the organisation, or you eventually want finer grained sorting than the number of drawers&#x2F;trays can provide.<p>The method I&#x27;ve settled on is a (cheap) set of steel storage shelves. I have a bunch of labelled cardboard boxes (shoebox sized) stacked on those shelves, a box per major category (resistors, capacitors, ...). Inside the boxes are a bunch of (cheap) zip lock plastic bags, each holding a particular value component.<p>This system is versatile as bag sizes can be varied according to how much space is required. (eg. the surface mount box has lots of small bags). It&#x27;s easy to add new components as you just break out a new bag and throw it in the appropriate box. Have a &quot;miscellaneous&quot; box for bits that don&#x27;t fit in a category and if that box fills up break out an extra box or two and create some new categories for some of the &quot;misc&quot; stuff. You can customise what goes inside the box, such as anti-static bags for semiconductors, no bags at all for things that will stack in a box or a box full of loose odds and sods of wire.<p>Shoebox sized is small enough to easily search, but big enough to hold things. The upside down lid of the box can be used as a sorting tray whilst searching.
steve_adams_86大约 2 年前
This is great. My own setup would benefit a lot from some of these ideas. Glad to see the omnifixo in there! It’s one of my favourite things I keep on hand.<p>I’ve never found the need to keep heaps of components on hand, but I guess I’m not an electrical engineer or anything remotely like it. I just fix stuff and make junk when I’m inspired. What kind of situation would justify having so much stuff on hand? Maybe if you actually design and prototype PCBs and know which components you’ll typically need?
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rapjr9大约 2 年前
The guide needs a section on safety with a notice that users of the bench can read. A cordless vacuum cleaner would be a useful addition to the tool list as well.
proee大约 2 年前
Love this article.<p>Regarding bench design, if the budget allows, it&#x27;s nice to make the desktop height adjustable via a motor drive. Depending on mood and project, I prefer to set a specific height for working.<p>For additional test hardware, I like to have an IR thermometer handy to measure critical thermal components. Also nice to have a sound level meter available to calibrate any audio projects.<p>For soldering, nice to have a diverse set of tweezers to hold SMD components and wires.
georgeoliver大约 2 年前
A great write up and I think the author has a bright future ahead of him.<p>However I can&#x27;t help but think of something I read recently, <a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;theanarchistlibrary.org&#x2F;library&#x2F;an-ontology-of-electronic-waste" rel="nofollow">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;theanarchistlibrary.org&#x2F;library&#x2F;an-ontology-of-elect...</a>.<p>I&#x27;m still trying to square my enthusiasm for electronics and micros with the counter points raised in that essay.
SAI_Peregrinus大约 2 年前
Good guide for getting started. I&#x27;d definitely recommend having more than one power supply channel.<p>I use a logic analyzer (and PCBite probes) quite a bit, but that&#x27;ll vary depending on what you do.<p>Other tools tend to be more specialized. Function generators are useful if doing analog circuits, board pre-heaters are important for some rework operations, and of course RF circuits have their own set of tools needed.
Workaccount2大约 2 年前
This looks like a beautiful setup that isn&#x27;t used too much. Or perhaps I am just jealous that I can&#x27;t keep my active work spaces neat.
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anonymousiam大约 2 年前
Not directly related, but I&#x27;m curious how much revenue all the Amazon affiliate links will generate for the author.
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eternityforest大约 2 年前
This is the analog&#x2F;dedicated enthusiast setup. Beginner&#x2F;Digital:<p>* Use the Falstad sim to play around. It&#x27;s amazing and runs in a browser.<p>* Plano molding ammo boxes. If you can&#x27;t fit everything in a few, help is available, a few months in parts bin addiction rehab can change your life!<p>* Pinecil soldering iron<p>* Unless you&#x27;re working with mains there are almost no bad meters, just ones with crappy specs. Get one with good accuracy and all the features.<p>* Now get an ESP32 Arduino-alike module. Something similar to a wemos S3 mini. Don&#x27;t pay more than $15. Or get an M5stack.<p>* Those crappy little modules are your friends. Especially if you are making installations and art. You don&#x27;t wanna be fussing with actual soldering for onsite parts. Use female pin jumpers. Might not even need a breadboard till later!! There&#x27;s a crappy little module for everything these days and they&#x27;re all pretty reliable.<p>* But not LM2596 buck modules Those are actually crappy. Other cheap regulators are probably fine.<p>* Don&#x27;t buy a bench power supply. That&#x27;s more towards the enthusiast stage. Instead buy yourself some USB-PD trigger modules. Watch for 12v ones, they actually give 9v aside from some newer PPS ones, because they removed 12v from the spec.<p>* When your thing needs power, put a trigger module on. They&#x27;re like $2. If your thing needs something other than 5, 9, 15, or 20v, use a cheap regulator.<p>* Or just power it right from the ESP32 Arduino-ish board. Either way, USB saves the day.<p>* If you want to do anything beyond this, just buy exactly the stuff you need for the project. Parts hoarding is an unrelated hobby that doesn&#x27;t have much to do with electronics.<p>* Get a 3D printer or learn woodworking if you want to make nice finished projects<p>* Wago connectors are your friend if you ever encounter wire bigger than 24awg or so.<p>* All cherry MX keyboard switch clones are good. All other cheap switches are suspect<p>* Microusb is evil
bjkayani大约 2 年前
Hi all. I am the author of the article and wanted to address some of the points raised here.<p>First of all, thank you reading the article and giving feedback. I never thought it would ever reach this many people.<p>I wanted to address the choices I made and the discussion of the lab being inadequate for real EE work. I wont argue that my choices are a bit over the place with some tools being at the highest end (eg. Knipex Side Cutters) while others being at the very low end (eg. Electronic Load).<p>The math of cost for my lab doesn&#x27;t work the same way as a professional lab. I don&#x27;t make any significant money from it. Hence the way I make choices is purely based on my requirements and on how much I use a particular tool. I use the hand tools most frequently hence I splurge on the expensive stuff. For the equipment (Scope, DMM, PSU), I slowly work my way upwards in price on a as needed basis. The current options work fine for me for the projects I work on and hence I dont see a good reason to invest in the more expensive piece of kit right away. If I need it, I will realize that and then go and buy that.<p>Compare that to a professional lab where there is a big cost of time and failures. Hence it makes sense to have higher end, more reliable equipment from the get go. And most labs are more purpose driven and will have equipment for that specific purpose anyways.<p>Moving on, there was good advice on soldering irons. I would admit that my setup might not be the best option for the current times. I have ordered the Pinecil and other similar options and will update the guide with my findings accordingly.<p>I will also add info about some of the missing stuff like the fume extractor, tweezers (dont know how I missed those), logic analyzer etc.<p>I will share more details about my component inventory and organization system soon.<p>My setup is always evolving and improving based on my needs, knowledge and experience. This was just a snapshot in time of how it currently stands with hopes that it would help and inspire other makers and engineers out there. There wont be a singular solution that works for everyone and that is the way it is. I just wanted to share what currently works best for me.<p>Finally, I apologize for not disclosing the Amazon affiliate links. I added that to the post and will be more transparent about it in the future.<p>Thank you.
mike50大约 2 年前
As an actual electronics engineer. Author is an RC Arduino hobbyist not really applicable to RF or hard core electronics. The Uni-T meter is only usable if you work at less then 50 volts. These DMM are unsafe at high voltage. Xcelite is a joke only techs from the 1970 and 1980s use their stuff nowadays it&#x27;s rebadged made in china by the Apex tools conglomerate. Could by the same tool from home depot rebranded. Interesting recommendation for a multibit screwdriver when in commercial electronics screw are deeply recessed in narrow openings.
oliverx0大约 2 年前
This is truly an amazing write-up, thank you!! I would love it if someone with experience in the bio lab scene (PCR machines, electrophoresis, western blot, pipettes, cell incubator, and so on) could write something similar.
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myself248大约 2 年前
I was expecting to grouch all over this, but I really like it. A lot of thought went into this, and the choices are mostly very good. A few notes from someone who&#x27;s been doing this 30+ years and 10 of those years as a volunteer in a community makerspace:<p>* 10&quot; shelves aren&#x27;t nearly deep enough for vintage test equipment. If all you need is a DS1054Z, that&#x27;s fine, but as you move up and your needs expand, you&#x27;ll find that more advanced test equipment is astonishingly expensive new. Some older stuff is obsolete junk, but some is still relevant and performant, and wonderfully affordable, albeit bulky. A cart can be a good way to accommodate the larger infrequent-use items without corrupting the elegance of the shallow shelves.<p>* The FX888D was indeed an inflection point in hobbyist-priced soldering stations, but the UI&#x2F;UX is so terrible it&#x27;s easier to blow away the calibration than to adjust the active temperature, and more than half the ones I&#x27;ve found in the wild have suffered exactly that. (I carry a calibrator.) The result is that someone either doesn&#x27;t know why their solder behaves terribly when they set &quot;the right temperature&quot;, or they&#x27;ve found a setting that works and the display is just showing a completely insane number that has nothing to do with anything. Either way it completely negates the benefit of a display in the first place! The old analog FX888 is a gem, but the D is so terrible I&#x27;d love to just yeet them all into the sun. As soon as the TS100 and Pinecil came out, it no longer made sense to buy any other soldering station, full stop. I keep one of each on my bench, with my two most commonly used tips in them, so I rarely find myself swapping tips, and I can dual-wield if the need arises. And all that is still cheaper than one FX888D.<p>* The digital microscope is a pale shadow of the experience with a proper binocular view with true depth perception and zero lag and stuff. Worth having for portability alone, and ultra affordable, but recognize that it&#x27;s a crutch and you should upgrade to genuine glass if you find yourself using it a lot. This is the only thing on the list that really made me cringe.<p>* The Knipex side cutter is indeed great, if you don&#x27;t need a true-flush end. I really like true flush, especially on zipties, because it doesn&#x27;t leave a burr. (Ask anyone with ziptie scars down their forearms about sharp burrs!) The Fastcap Micro Flush Trimmer is the best I&#x27;ve found, and ridiculously durable. My first one is now 15+ years old, the edges have picked up a few dents and the jaw is slightly skew, but I keep it around because it still does better work than the Xcelite cheapies. New ones put in 5+ years of hard service before they start to show any age at all, and that&#x27;s frankly incredible. It&#x27;s roughly twice the price of the cheapies and does 100x the work.<p>* For tweezers, look no further than the Electron Microscopy Sciences economy tweezers kit K5-ECO.SA, $26: <a href="https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.emsdiasum.com&#x2F;economy-tweezers-kit-00-2a-3c-5-7" rel="nofollow">https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.emsdiasum.com&#x2F;economy-tweezers-kit-00-2a-3c-5-7</a> These are an order of magnitude nicer than the Amazon cheapies, and within spitting distance of the same price. I&#x27;ve got hundreds of hours on mine at this point and I give sets as gifts to anyone getting into SMD. Friends don&#x27;t let friends suffer with bad tweezers.
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k_sze大约 2 年前
Just a quick note that you DON&#x27;T want the Hakko FX-888D soldering station. It has a push button UI that doesn&#x27;t make sense. Louis Rossmann had complained about it on YouTube a loooong time ago.<p>If you still want a simple Hakko soldering station, pay a bit more and get a Hakko FX-950, which has an analog turn-knob UI; the old FX-888 (without the &quot;D&quot;) had been discontinued a loooong time ago.
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hommelix大约 2 年前
Is it me or it looks like an amazon affiliate links farm?
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gaudat大约 2 年前
This is some unpopular opinion but please, do not buy extra components thinking that you will use it in some extrea projects. Only buy components that your current design needs. It&#x27;s even better if you can get a board house to assemble them before it arrives at your desk. Otherwise it is the beginning of the fall to a hoarder life.<p>Except if you are playing in RF or some black magic where simulation does not cut it...
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geocrasher大约 2 年前
That is <i>wonderfully</i> thorough. And overkill for a large number of projects. But if you&#x27;re doing real EE work, this is excellent stuff.
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nuker大约 2 年前
Change PSU for lab grade one, this one is nasty.
knodi123大约 2 年前
A $70 screwdriver. Must be nice to have the kind of budget where numbers just don&#x27;t matter. Ironic that he said about his iron, &quot;Get this once and never think about it again&quot;. But he got it twice! What do you do with dual soldering irons? Does he need someone to foster the spare $120 tool in a good home?
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dismalpedigree大约 2 年前
I’m pleased to see the similarities with my own setup which is likely a year or two behind this setup. Same desk, organizers, most of the products, similar challenges with a proliferation of components. Separate work desk from bench. I look forward to the inventory post as it is definitely a challenge for me.
aetherspawn大约 2 年前
Does anyone have recommendations for a cheap rack mount setup of power supplies, testing equipment etc?<p>We have a 1&#x2F;3 height wheely rack in the office that can be wheeled over to someone’s workspace, and it would be more convenient than setting up a dedicated station.
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Wafje大约 2 年前
I am interested in the airtable inventory system. Anyone else got good experience with airtable?
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lifeisstillgood大约 2 年前
I know this is probably the dumbest question but I hate mounting swivel arm monitors &#x2F; TVs to stud wall &#x2F; plasterboard. The stud is either in wrong place and all the clever expanding screw fix things just seem ... meh.<p>I miss brick walls
clumsysmurf大约 2 年前
I found the Inventory system interesting. I have lots of small items I would like to inventory, i need something like a ECC200 sticker 5mm x 5mm that has a GUID. Anyone have ideas?
TheCleric大约 2 年前
Best bang for the buck here in my opinion: The Engineer SS-02.<p>Before I bought this I thought all solder suckers were the same. I was wrong. Well worth the ~$20, built like a tank, and works very well.
scld大约 2 年前
This is a great writeup. I&#x27;d personally go with a binoc scope and some other personal preferences, but either way it&#x27;s awesome to see a nice breakdown like this.
ftxbro大约 2 年前
I wonder how much this entire setup costs is it like $20,000?
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tastyfreeze大约 2 年前
Wow! Not my kind of workbench but I appreciate a well organized workbench. The site looks like an excellent resource if I ever wanted to get into this hobby.
ilyt大约 2 年前
IKEA had great workbench for that, sadly I think they stopped making it (I bought mine like 10+ years ago). It was bench + 2 shelves above as one unit
ablyveiled大约 2 年前
I wish I had the living situation to implement this.
10g1k大约 2 年前
My recommendation: A strong extractor fan&#x2F;range hood, or open windows. The solder fumes are killers. Protect your health.
xarromaster大约 2 年前
10&#x2F;10 Awesome!!! When I was a child, I dreamed of having one like this !! I love Electronics.
garbagecoder大约 2 年前
Beautiful. In another life long ago, I was a radio repairman at a truck stop. My bench did not look like that.
no-dr-onboard大约 2 年前
Super clean personal site. No fluff, straight to the point. What a beautiful portfolio as well.
jensenbox大约 2 年前
You should sell this page as a kit.<p>Buy all this stuff, all in for $ + shipping.
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zargon大约 2 年前
schmartboard.com has the best jumper wires. No more dealing with prototypes not working because the cheap wire flexed at the wrong angle.
deweywsu大约 2 年前
FAR too organized.
jvandonsel大约 2 年前
New blog genre. “Workbench porn”
BobTheDestroyer大约 2 年前
I&#x27;m still searching for a solution to organise the hundreds (thousands?) of anti-static component bags I have from the likes of LCSC, Mouser, etc.<p>It&#x27;s so difficult to find something that is the right size and shape to hold them upright, allowing organising, sifting through them to find the one I need, etc. The repackaging shown here is nice, but I don&#x27;t want them ultimately stuffed into a drawer, nor can I see myself going to the effort - especially the part where I&#x27;d need to enter them all into a database.
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